WHICH MAY BE FOUND IN YOUR PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS
HARMFUL
INGREDIENTS TO AVOID
WHICH MAY BE FOUND IN
YOUR PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS
News Release by Dr. SAMUEL EPSTEIN
PROPYLENE GLYCOL
Called a humectant in cosmetics, it is really
"industrial anti-freeze" and the major ingredient in
brake and hydraulic fluid. Tests show it can be a strong skin
irritant. Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) on Propylene Glycol
warn to avoid skin contact as it is systemic and can cause liver
abnormalities and kidney damage.
MINERAL OIL
Comes from crude oil (petroleum) used in industry as metal
cutting fluid. May suffocate the skin by forming an oil film.
Healthy skin needs to take in oxygen and release carbon dioxide.
This process should not be inhibited. Holding large amounts of
moisture in the skin can "flood" the biology, and may
result in immature, unhealthy, sensitive skin that dries out
easily.
PETROLEUM
Same properties as Mineral Oil. Industrially it is used as a
grease component.
SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE (SLS) and
SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (SLES)
Potentially, SLS is perhaps the most harmful ingredient in
personal-care products. SLS is used in testing-labs as the
standard skin irritant to compare the healing properties of other
ingredients. Industrial uses of SLS include: garage floor
cleaners, engine degreasers and car wash soaps. Studies show its
danger potential to be great, when used in personal-care
products. Research has shown that SLS and SLES may cause
potentially carcinogenic nitrates and dioxins to form in the
bottles of shampoos and cleansers by reacting with commonly used
ingredients found in many products. Large amounts of nitrates may
enter the blood system from just one shampooing.
BENTONITE or KAOLIN
Clays in foundations that may clog and suffocate the
skin.
GLYCERIN
Draws moisture from inside the skin, and holds it on the surface
for a better "feel". Dries skin from the inside out.
COLLAGEN and ELASTIN of HIGH
MOLECULAR WEIGHT
Derived from animal skins and ground-up chicken feet. Both of
these ingredients form films that may suffocate and
over-moisturize the skin. BAR SOAPS Made from animal fat and lye.
May let bacteria feed and grow in it. May corrode & dry the
skin.
Many of the hyped ingredients found in
most cosmetic brands cannot penetrate the skin because of their
high-molecular weight, so they are of little benefit. For
example: procollagen, collagen, elastin, cross-linked elastin,
and hyaluronic acids...
Other virtually useless ingredients are insoluble oil-based
Vitamin A (Retinyl Palmitate), Placental Extracts, and Royal Bee
Jelly.
FOR ALTERNATIVE
PRODUCTS WITH SUPERIOR PERFORMANCE AND NO HARMFUL INGREDIENTS
CONTACT THE PERSON AT THE TOP OF THIS PAGE!
I Encourage You to Check Out the
Labels on Your Hair, Skin, Body, Dental and Personal Hygiene
Products, etc. Be Sure You Know What’s In It!
OTHER HARMFUL
INGREDIENTS AND MYTHS
ALBUMIN
MYTH: The chief ingredient in artificial face lifts. It is
being touted as a wrinkle treatment.
FACT: ... The last time a serious case concerning consumer
claims came up was in the 1960's. Both of these products were
temporary wrinkle removers. The formulas contained a bovine serum
albumin that, when dried, formed a film over wrinkles thus making
wrinkles less obvious (Brumberg).
BENTONITE
MYTH: This is a naturally occurring mineral used
in facial masks. It differs from true clay, kaolin, in that when
mixed with liquid it forms a gel. It can have sharp edges which
scratch the skin. Most bentonites can be drying to the skin
(Hampton).
FACT: Bentonite is used in formulations and masks. It
forms films which are gas impermeable, effectively trapping
toxins and CO, in the skin which needs to vent and escape,
suffocating the skin by shutting out the vitally needed oxygen.
BIOTIN (Vitamin H)
MYTH: An exotic ingredient promoted as being necessary and
beneficial for skin and hair care.
FACT: A deficiency of this vitamin has been associated
with greasy scalps and baldness in rats and other experimental
animals. Fur-bearing animals, however, have a very different hair
growth from human beings. Biotin deficiency in man is extremely
rare. Biotin is considered a worthless additive in cosmetic
products (Chase). The molecular size of Biotin is too large to
penetrate the skin.
COLLAGEN
MYTH: Some companies imply that collagen can
support the skin's own collagen network. Others claim it can be
absorbed to moisturize skin.
FACT: The collagen in creams and lotions acts like any
protein ingredient in that it merely provides a coating on the
skin's surface (Chase). The collagen molecule cannot penetrate
your skin because it is much too large to be absorbed by the
epidermis (Brumberg).
Collagen, elastin, or other proteins and amino acids cannot get
into the skin through topical application. The molecules of these
substances are simply too large to penetrate your skin (Novick).
Cosmetics manufacturers have heralded it as a new wonder
ingredient, but according to medical experts, it cannot affect
the skin's own collagen when applied topically (Winter). It
suffocates the skin trapping toxins and keeping out oxygen.
ELASTIN (Not cross-linked Elastin)
MYTH: Another ingredient promoted as being beneficial for
skin and hair care.
FACT: Elastin is included in some skin care products, but
nowhere near as much as collagen. It too cannot be absorbed by
the epidermis (Brumberg). In a cosmetic product, they cannot
restore tone to skin. When used in such products as moisturizers,
they act like all other commercial proteins – by forming a
film that holds moisture (Chase).
GLYCERIN
MYTH: Promoted as being a beneficial humectant.
FACT: This is a clear, syrupy liquid made by chemically
combining water and fat. The water splits the fat into smaller
components – glycerol and fatty acids. It improves the
spreading qualities of creams and lotions and prevents them from
losing water through evaporation. Glycerin, however, has a
tendency to draw water out of the skin and so can make dry skin
dryer (Chase). A solvent, humectant and emollient in many
cosmetics, it absorbs moisture from the air and therefore helps
keep moisture in creams and other products, even if the consumer
leaves the cap off the container (Winter). SEE HUMECTANTS. Unless
the humidity of the air is over 65%, glycerin will pull the
moisture out of the skin, drying you from the inside out.
HUMECTANTS
MYTH: Ingredients which draw moisture to and aid in
moisturizing skin.
FACT: Most moisturizers contain humectants that act as
water attractors, they actually pull moisture out of your skin
(Valmy). The problem with humectants, including propylene glycol
and glycerin is that although they are most effective when you
are in areas with high humidity, if you are going to be in an
extremely low humidity atmosphere, such as in an airplane or even
a dry room, they can actually take moisture from your skin.
Here's why: Humectants are on the search for moisture that can be
absorbed from the environment. If the environment is so drying
that there is no moisture to be had, they will get it from the
next best source – your skin. When this happens, the
ingredient, which is supposed to help your skin retain moisture,
instead does the opposite (Brumberg). A substance used to
preserve the moisture content of materials, especially in hand
creams and lotions (Winter). SEE GLYCERIN, PROPYLENE GLYCOL.
These are natural or synthetic compounds that are used to prevent
water loss and drying of the skin. They also form a smooth feel
to cosmetic lotions. Some are safe, some aren't.
HYPOALLERGENIC
MYTH: A product to which you are not allergic.
FACT: Hypoallergenic means "less than" and the
word hypoallergenic tells the consumer that the manufacturer
believes the product has fewer allergens than other products.
There are no federal regulations defining allergens, nor are
there any guidelines. So "hypoallergenic" has little
meaning (Brumberg).
KAOLIN
MYTH: A very beneficial fine natural clay originally from
Mt. Kaolin in China, hence the name.
FACT: Quite drying and may be dehydrating to the skin. It
also may be contaminated with impurities (Hampton). Used in
formulations and masks. Forms films which are gas impermeable.
Effectively traps toxins and CO, in the skin which need to vent
and escape. Then suffocates the skin by shutting out the vitally
needed oxygen.
LANOLIN
MYTH: A beneficial moisturizer.
FACT: Advertisers have found that the words "contains
Lanolin" help to sell a product and have promoted it as
being able to "penetrate the skin better than other
oils," although there is little scientific proof of this.
Lanolin has been found to be a common skin sensitizer causing
allergic contact skin rashes (Winter). Lanolin usually contains
pesticides used on sheep and wool.
LAURAMIDE DEA
A partly natural, partly synthetic chemical used to build
lather and thicken various cosmetic products. Also used in
dishwashing detergents for its grease-cutting ability. Can be
drying to the hair, cause skin and scalp itching and allergic
reactions (Hampton).
LIPOSOMES
MYTH: Nanosphenes or Micellization - Ultimate
anti-aging agent.
FACT: Liposomes are one of the newest entries in the
"Fountain of Youth" arena. According to one recent
theory, cellular aging involves the edification of skin cell
membranes. Liposomes, which are tiny bags of fat and thymus gland
extract suspended in a gel, are supposed to merge with your aging
skin cells, revive them and add moisture to them. Current
scientific understanding does not support the rigidification
theory. The cell membranes of young and old persons are alike. As
a result, it is likely that liposome-containing moisturizers
represent nothing more than another expensive allure (Novick).
MINERAL OIL
MYTH: A beneficial moisturizer.
FACT: An oil manufactured from crude oil. It is a mixture
of liquid hydrocarbons separated from petroleum. Dr. T. G.
Randolph, an allergist, has found that this and many other
cosmetic chemicals cause petrochemical hypersensitivity. The
allergic reactions can become quite serious in time leading to
arthritis, migraine, hyperkinesis, epilepsy and diabetes. Taken
internally, mineral oil binds the fat soluble vitamins A, D and E
and carries them unabsorbed out of the body, and although little
mineral oil is able to penetrate the skin, this tendency is so
dangerous that Adelle Davis in Let's Eat Right to Keep Fit says
that she "personally would be afraid to use this oil even in
baby oils, cold creams and other cosmetics" (New York:
Harcourt, Brace, Jovanovich, 1970, p. 46). The fact that mineral
oil does not penetrate the skin well makes it inappropriate for
use in an absorption base in a skin cream of any kind. In fact,
mineral oil-containing cosmetics can produce symptoms similar to
dry skin by inhibiting the natural moisturizing factor of your
skin. Petrolatum, paraffin or paraffin oil and propylene glycol
are other common cosmetic forms of mineral oil. Toxic. Avoid them
(Hampton). Has tendency to dissolve the skin's own natural oil
and thereby increase dehydration. Mineral oils have been found to
be probably the single greatest cause of breakouts in women who
use a new product (Chase). Serious carcinogens are commonly found
in Mineral Oil.
NATURAL COSMETICS
MYTH: No artificial ingredients. Pure or from
nature.
FACT: There is no legal definition for "natural"
which is why you see it everywhere. A chemist's definition of
organic simply requires that the molecule contain carbon
(Hampton). In cosmetic terminology, the term "natural"
usually means anything the manufacturer wishes. There are no
legal boundaries for the term. There are no guidelines
surrounding what can or cannot be inside a "natural"
product. Most cosmetics called "natural" still contain
preservatives, coloring agents and all the other things you can
think of that sound very unnatural (Begoun).
pH
pH stands for the power of the hydrogen atom. Skin and hair do
not have a pH. A scale from 0 to 14 is used to measure acidity
and alkalinity of solutions. pH 7.0 is neutral. Acidity increases
as the pH number decreases and alkalinity increases as the pH
number increases. Usually the pH of a cosmetic will not change
the natural pH of the hair or skin because the hair and skin
contain keratin, fatty acids and other substances that adjust the
pH levels with which they come into contact. As long as a pH is
not unusually high or low there is no problem – pH wise
– with a cosmetic. Naturally the high pH of cold wave
solutions and hair straighteners can damage the hair and skin,
but even this is rare providing a proper conditioner or
moisturizer is used after such pH alterations. There is no such
thing as a "pH balanced" product because a product's pH
will drift during shelf life and alter when applied to the hair
and skin. A product's pH is not a danger to the body, but the
synthetic chemicals used in cosmetics – often to alter the
pH to please the ones who fall for the "pH balanced"
story – are (Hampton).
PLACENTAL EXTRACT
MYTH: Promoted for rejuvenating and nourishing
aging skin.
FACT: Placental extracts are another big hype. In
moisturizers, these ingredients allegedly supplement the vitamin
and hormone content. The manufacturers of these products take
advantage of the belief that since the placenta nourishes the
developing embryo, an extract of it can nourish and rejuvenate
aging skin. Placental extracts can do no such thing (Novick). The
value of a cosmetic depends on its active ingredients and with
cosmetics containing "placental extract" it is
impossible to tell what you are getting (Chase). Temporary means
temporary, but it's still nice, every now and then, to be able to
get a smoother look. Some ingredients include sodium silicate,
bovine serum albumin and human placental protein (Bromberg).
Worst yet many may come from aborted fetuses or might not be
properly sanitized.
PROPYLENE GLYCOL
MYTH: Being promoted as being a beneficial humectant.
FACT: It is the most common moisture-carrying vehicle,
other than water, in cosmetics. It has better permeation through
the skin than glycerin and is less expensive, although it has
been linked to more sensitivity reactions. Its use is being
reduced and it is being replaced by safer glycols (Winter). A
moisturizer that has been shown to provoke acne eruptions
(Chase). See HUMECTANTS.
ROYAL BEE JELLY
MYTH: Promoted to nourish and moisturize the skin.
FACT: This substance is found in beehives. It is secreted
from the digestive tubes of worker bees. The male bees and the
workers eat royal jelly for only a few days after they are born,
but the queen bee eats royal jelly all of her life. Because royal
jelly is associated with the health and long life of the queen
bee, it was believed that this substance could have some
age-retarding properties. It does not. There has been extensive
research done on the value of royal jelly and the scientific
consensus is that it is worthless for humans. Anyone who claims
that it has special powers is a fraud (Chase). Eggs, milk, honey
and royal bee jelly are other favorites of some moisturizer
manufacturers. Without question, eggs are nourishing for the
embryo, milk nourishing and life-sustaining for infants, and
honey and royal bee jelly nectar for bees. When applied to the
skin, however, they do little for you, although they may give a
moisturizer a smoother consistency or a lush look (Novick).
Highly touted as a magical ingredient in cosmetics to restore
one's skin to youthfulness. If stored for over 2 weeks, royal
jelly loses its capacity to develop queen bees. Even when fresh,
there is no proven value in a cosmetic preparation (Winter).
SEAWEED
MYTH: Promoted to nourish and moisturize the skin.
FACT: This plant has gelatinous properties. It is the
major ingredient of the thin, clear masks that peel off in one
piece. These masks allow the skin to build up a supply of water.
Seaweed is also used in face creams and lotions where it gives
body and substance to the products, not to the skin (Chase).
SODIUM CHLORIDE
(Salt - NaCI) Used to increase the viscosity in some cosmetics.
Can cause eye and skin irritation if used in too high
concentrations (Hampton). Its usually used to make a cheap,
watery consistency product look thick and rich instead.
SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (SLES)
Chemical name: Sodium Lauryl "ether" Sulfate An ether
chain is added to SLS. Called a premium agent in cleansers and
shampoos. In reality it is very inexpensive but thickens when
salt is added in the formula and produces high levels of foam to
give the concentrated illusion it is thick, rich and expensive.
Used as a wetting agent in the textile industry. Irritating to
scalp and may cause hair loss (Wright). SEE SODIUM LAURYL
SULFATE.
SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE (SLS)
No one making any claims about this one – and for
good reason. We examined an anionic detergent, Sodium Lauryl
Sulfate, which is commonly found in soaps and shampoos, that
showed penetration into the eyes, as well as systemic tissues
(brain, heart, liver, etc.). SLS also showed long-term retention
in tissues. In soaps and shampoos, there is an immediate concern
relating to the penetration of these chemicals into the eyes and
other tissues. This is especially important in infants, where
considerable growth is occurring, because a much greater uptake
occurs by tissues of younger eyes and SLS changes the amounts of
some proteins in cells from eye tissues. Tissues of young eyes
may be more susceptible to alternation by SLS (Green). Forms
nitrates, a possible carcinogen when used in shampoos and
cleansers containing nitrogen-based ingredients. These nitrates
can enter the blood stream in large numbers from shampooing,
bubble baths, bath and shower gels and facial cleansers. These
synthetic substances are used in shampoos for their detergent and
foam-building abilities. They can cause eye irritations, skin
rashes, hair loss, scalp scurf similar to dandruff and allergic
reactions. They are frequently disguised in pseudo-natural
cosmetics with the parenthetic explanation "comes from
coconut." Let's save the coconut from defamation of
character and NOT use products with sodium lauryl sulfate, etc.!
(Hampton) Dr. David H. Fine, the chemist who uncovered NDELA
contamination in cosmetics, estimates that a person would be
applying 50 to 100 micrograms of nitrosamine to the skin each
time he or she used a nitrosamine-contaminated cosmetic. By
comparison, a person consuming sodium nitrite-preserved bacon is
exposed to less than 1 microgram of nitrosamine (Hampton).
TYROSINE
MYTH: An amino acid which can help you attain a
deep. dark tan.
FACT: Some tanning accelerator lotions do contain
Tyrosine. You can be sure they'll advertise it if they do –
an amino acid that's essential to melanization (darkening) of the
skin. But, melanization is an internal process and spreading
lotion on the skin's surface does nothing to fuel it. Similar
logic would have us trying to rub food through our pores to
satisfy hunger (Matarasso). Manufacturer's claims for the
efficacy of tan accelerators remain unproven; a recent,
independent study of these products failed to demonstrate any
augmentation of tanning. Indeed it is doubtful that sufficient
amounts of tyrosine can penetrate to the level of the skin where
it could enhance melanin production (Novick).
AHA's (Alpha Hydroxy Acids, i.e.: Glycolic, Lactic and
others)
MYTH: Exfoliates the skin to remove wrinkles and expose
young skin.
FACT: Removing the outer layer of the skin exposes the
young skin to the harsh aging and damaging environmental agents.
Use of AHA's could make you age much faster. You could look
better today but may not be such a pretty sight in 10 years. Your
outer layer of skin is your first and most important line of
defense. Everything should be done to make it healthy and keep it
– NOT LOSE IT. The FDA reported their deep concern with
exfoliating the stratum corneum and the aging and health risks
associated with this potentially dangerous procedure. (May 1994)
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Begoin, Paula Blue Eyeshadow Should Still Be Legal,
Beginning Press, 1988
Brumberg, Elaine Take Care of Your Skin, Harper & Row
Publishers, Inc. 1989
Chase, Deborah The New Medically-Based No-Nonsense Beauty Book,
Henry Holt and Co., 1989
Friend, Tim "USA Today," 4-10-90
Green, Dr. Keith Detergent Penetration Into Young and Adult
Eyes Department of Opthamology, Medical College of GA,
Augusta, GA.
Hampton, Aubrey Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients
Organic Press Metarasso, Dr. Seth L. "Faking lt"
– Muscle & Fitness, November, 1990
Novick, Dr. Nelson Lee Super Skin, Clarkston, N. Potter,
Inc., Publishers, 1988 Valmy,
Christine 8 Vons Ulrich, Elise "Mid-Air Skin Care"
– Entrepreneurial Woman, July/August 1990
Winter, Ruth A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients,
Crown Publishers, Inc. 1989
Wright, Camille S. Shampoo Report, Images International,
Inc., 1989
Avoid Skin Care
Cosmetics: Save Your Money and Save Your Face
Linda Miller - Fashion Editor
Save your money and save your face.
That's Tom Mower's philosophy on skin care. "If you would
use nothing but soap and water on your skin, and put your money
in the bank rather than buy cosmetics, you not only would be more
youthful looking, you'd be wealthier," he said. "I've
never seen a skin care line that, in my opinion, would not make
you age faster than if you would not use it," Mower said.
That's a bold statement, considering that Mower is a research
chemist and president and founder of NEWAYS International', a
company that manufactures skin care and personal care products.
"What makes most products undesirable and ineffective is
their ingredients, specifically sodium laureth sulfate, propylene
glycol and kaolin," "Sodium laureth sulfate or or
sodium lauryl sulfate is a common ingredient in shampoos,"
he said. "It's inexpensive and a small amount gives a high
level of foam. In reality," Mower said, "it's an
ingredient that can inhibit hair growth, contribute to hair loss
and could cause cataracts if it gets into the eyes."
"Propylene glycol, found in most moisturizers, is industrial
anti-freeze .Mower said. "Your skin runs on water, not
anti-freeze." He said propylene glycol can penetrate into
the skin and cause liver abnormalities and kidney damage
according to Material Safety Data Sheets.
"Bentonite or kaolin, an ingredient used in many makeup
foundations, is the same stuff used to fight fires," he
said. "The very foundation you put on ... is suffocating
your face." Mower said he doesn't use any of those
ingredients in his products. "The skin is a living,
breathing organ that should be enhanced rather than
inhibited," he said.
Unfortunately, consumers are at the mercy of cosmetic companies.
Ingredients may be listed on the package, but who knows what they
do? "Even 'natural' and hypoallergenic' are misused
terms," Mower said. "Poison ivy is natural. Just
because a product is natural doesn't mean it's good," he
said. "If you put your faith in cosmetics and skin care and
the companies and their products, you're getting what you're
paying for – slick advertising and packaging," he said.
"Generally, the cap on the bottle of most skin care products
costs more than the ingredients that are in the product," he
said.
As an example, he cites an $87 bottle of firming cream that
contains less than 25 cents worth of ingredients. "So what
did you pay for? You paid for that full-page ad, that beautiful
box and the beautiful bottle." Mower said cosmetic companies
take advantage of consumers who strive to look good, to take care
of themselves. "Ironically, they're making their skin age
faster and they're paying to do it," he said. "Now
that's my opinion." Mower has become a crusader for products
with integrity. That's why he established his company four years
ago in Salem, Utah. That's why he constantly "researches the
research," refines and improves ingredients that are
superior and then develops a new product or adds it to an
existing product to improve it. "More than $8 billion was
spent on researching health and skin care products in the U.S.
last year," he said. "Modern testing is proving time
and time again that many ingredients used in skin care products
aren't good for the body or the skin," he said.
Additional information on 24 hour recorded message 801-325-4959
24 HOUR 10 MINUTE NEWAYS OVERVIEW 1-800-326-3051
I Encourage You To Look At The Labels On Your Bubble Baths, Shampoos, Moisturizers, Facial Cleansers, Toothpaste, Etc.
NEWAYS Highly Effective Ingredients!
News Release by Dr. SAMUEL EPSTEIN